Unique Travel Experience in Multan, Pakistan

Multan, a city steeped in history, lies in the heart of Pakistan's Punjab province. Known as the "City of Saints and Shrines," it boasts ancient architecture, vibrant bazaars, and a rich cultural heritage. Here, you can also experience the soulful melodies of Sufi music, characterized by its mystical and introspective lyrics, often accompanied by traditional instruments like the sitar and tabla.

Travel blogs about Multan are surprisingly rare, so I decided to share a brief account of my equally brief trip.

Intemporal Train Ride from Lahore to Multan

The highlight of my Multan trip was not Multan itself but undoubtedly the train journey from Lahore.

The five-hour ride offered a captivating glimpse into the Pakistani rural life as we traversed through numerous cities and villages. I firmly believe train travel provides the most authentic travel experience, offering greater space and comfort than cars or buses while allowing you to engage with locals. This is especially true in countries like Pakistan and India, where the diverse range of travel classes – from basic non-AC seats to luxurious AC sleepers – provides a unique window into different social strata.

Having booked AC Business seats (six-person cabins), me and my travel companion were fortunate to have them to ourselves both ways, likely due to our foreign status and the police's overprotective concern for our safety (more on that later). The return journey costed a mere 5,400 PKR (less than €20 in 2024).

I could have easily spent days on this train, immersing myself in the experience: reading, exploring different carriages, savoring steaming cups of chai, and simply observing the passing landscape. It was a truly spiritual journey.

Security in Multan

Based on limited online information I had found, I had anticipated the possibility of being forced a security escort upon arrival in Multan. This (unfortunately) indeed occurred.

Foreign nationals appear to be only permitted to stay in an handful of hotels in Multan, namley the Ramada (where we stayed), Sindbad Hotel, Fiesta Inn and Hotel One.

At check-in, the receptionist at the Ramada informed us of their legal requirement to notify the police of our presence and that we could only leave the hotel with a policeescort (requiring prior notification of at least 30 minutes).

While not overly burdensome during our two-night stay, this could become frustrating for longer stays, restricting freedom of movement. However, I've heard of travelers visiting Multan without escorts by staying in hotels that are not officially registered to accommodate tourists and persuading the staff not to inform the police. Couchsurfing appears to be another option, requiring your host to assume responsibility for your safety with the authorities.

We ultimately decided to make the best of the situation, using the provided escorts as free personal guides and taxi drivers. Another perk of this "arrangement" was the swift navigation through the city's traffic, as our police escort seamlessly cleared intersections with the blaring siren.

Must-do's in Multan

When we asked the hotel receptionist about things to see in Multan, he laughed and said, "Nothing." Well, Multan proved him wrong! While it's true that a day or two might be enough to see the main sights, we found Multan to be a charming city with a pleasant atmosphere for simply wandering around and soaking up the local vibe.

Sufi Shrines

Sufism is the mystical branch of Islam, emphasizing a personal experience of God through meditation, devotion, and love. Sufis seek to find the truth of divine love and knowledge through direct personal experience of God.

Multan is renowned as the "City of Saints and Shrines," and exploring these sacred sites is a must-do. Some of the most prominent Sufi shrines include:

• Shrine of Shah Rukn-e-Alam: This impressive shrine is dedicated to Shah Rukn-e-Alam, a prominent Sufi saint who lived during the 14th century. The 700-year-old building is a phenomenal piece of Islamic architecture, including intricate tilework and a towering minaret. It is a significant pilgrimage site and a testament to the rich Sufi heritage of Multan.

• Shrine of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya: A few stone's throw from the Shah Rukn-e-Alam lays yet another mausoleum: the Shrine of Bahauddin Zakariya. The shrine was built before his death, which he paid for entirely before his passing, something quite unusual for the time. Not as spectacular as its neighbior, Shrine of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya remains of of Multan's most important and spiritual site.

• Shah Shams Darbar: One of Multan's other significant shrines, Shah Shams Darbar is dedicated to the beloved Sufi saint Shah Shams Sabzwari. This sacred place is not only a site of worship but also a vibrant cultural hub that attracts thousands of visitors from all over the region. This was our favorite shrine, as it was alive with the presence of numerous devotees. We were captivated by the mesmerizing Sufi music being played by local musicians outside, adding a deeply spiritual dimension to our visit.

Eidgah Mosque

We visited the Eidgah Mosque at sunset, and it was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful mosques we encountered during our +2 weeks in Pakistan. The presence of numerous young students, dressed in traditional attire and sporting turbans, added a unique charm to the experience. These students reside at the mosque, dedicating their entire days to prayer and Islamic studies.

Next to the mosque lies another small shrine where we observed students engaged in fervent prayer.

Sufi Music

Multan is a vibrant hub for Sufi music. Thursdays are typically the best day to witness live performances at or near the shrines. However, we were fortunate to encounter the two musicians performing outside of Shah Shams Darbar on a Tuesday. We spent a captivating 20 minutes enjoying their soulful melodies.

Blue Pottery

Multan boasts a rich artistic heritage, particularly renowned for its exquisite blue pottery. This traditional craft involves intricate hand-painted designs in vibrant blue hues on earthenware. Influenced by Persian techniques, these unique pieces often feature floral motifs, geometric patterns, and calligraphy. From decorative bowls and vases to intricately tiled walls, Multan's blue pottery adds a touch of elegance and cultural richness to homes and public spaces alike.

I highly recommend visiting this factory, where you can enjoy a complimentary guided tour and have the opportunity to purchase exquisite blue pottery at ridiculously cheap prices.

Hussain Agahi Bazaar

The Hussain Agahi Bazaar is a bustling marketplace overflowing with vibrant colors, aromatic spices, and a lively atmosphere. This historic bazaar offers a glimpse into the city's rich commercial heritage and provides an opportunity to interact with local vendors and experience the daily life of Multan.

Multan's Library

Multan's library is a fascinating place to visit, offering a journey through time. Its old and dusty interior, filled with a diverse collection of books, old newspapers, and magazines, adds to its unique charm. Browsing through the local newspapers offered a unique perspective on global events, particularly the ongoing crisis in the Middle East during our visit 2024, compared to the coverage in Western media.

Back on the Pakistani Railway... Accompanied

We were eagerly anticipating our return journey to Lahore by train, excited to experience another adventure on the Pakistani railway. We almost missed our train though, as our police escort was late and the hotel's security guards rrefused to allow us to leave for the station unaccompanied.

As I had an international flights on the same day in Lahore, I did not flinch and we forced our way out, with the help of a taxi driver who was, thankfully, unimpressed by the hotel's attempts to restrict our movements.

However, our encounters with police officers were far from over. As we were waiting for our (delayed) train on the platform, a group of policemen approached us and directed us to their office to be "in safety". Hesitant at first, we indulged and, slitghly abusing the Pakistani hospitality, I then ask whether we could have some chai while waiting in their office. It was their turn to indulge 🙃.

Once we heard the train approaching, we thought we would finally be able to get rid of those slightly invasive friends. Mistake. Our journey to Lahore continued with a police escort throughout, with teams of one or two officers assuming responsibility at each station along the route...

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