Travel Guide: Solo Backpacking Through Rural Armenia

Armenia: A Hidden Gem Waiting to Be Discovered

With a captivating blend of breathtaking landscapes, intriguing Soviet-era architecture, a wealth of challenging trekking routes, warm and welcoming locals, and a vibrant culinary scene, Armenia effortlessly captured my heart. The fact that it remains relatively untouched by mass tourism adds to its allure, making it an ideal destination for adventurous travelers seeking an authentic experience.

I spent two and half weeks exploring Armenia in August, embracing the local rhythm by traveling via marshrutkas (shared taxis) and hitchhiking. Hitchhiking is extremely easy in Armenia as the country is still slowly emerging as a tourist destination, meaning that locals are always happy to help foreigners who visiting their region. On top of being the most affordable way to travel, it is also a great way to interact with locals.

While 10 days might be enough to uncover Armenia's best spots, I highly recommend spending at least two weeks to truly immerse yourself in the country's beauty and savor the relaxed pace of rural Armenian life.

This comprehensive guide will equip you with all the necessary information for backpacking Armenia, highlighting why it should be on every adventurous traveler's bucket list. I'll share my detailed itinerary, offering suggestions for those with limited time.

A Nation Forged in Resilience

Understanding Armenia's complex history is crucial for appreciating the country's unique character. The nation has endured immense suffering, from the tragic Armenian Genocide in the early 20th century, which decimated a significant portion of its population, to the ongoing conflict in the Nagorno-Karabakh region. This region has been a focal point of a decades-long dispute, resulting in countless lives lost and the recent displacement of over 100,000 ethnic Armenians.

For a deeper understanding of the current situation, I recommend reading this insightful BBC article on the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. Numerous resources are available to learn about the Armenian Genocide, and a visit to the poignant Genocide Museum in Yerevan is highly recommended.

Yerevan: A Blend of Old and New (3 nights)

Yerevan, where trendy coffee shops coexist with Soviet-era architecture, offers a captivating blend of old and new. While two full days are ideal, a shorter stay is possible if you prioritize exploring Armenia's stunning countryside.

Must-Do's in Yerevan

• Republic Square: This bustling heart of the city is a fantastic place to people-watch, soak up the atmosphere, and experience the vibrant pulse of Yerevan.

• Explore the Markets: Immerse yourself in the local scene at the Armenian Market, where you can find a cornucopia of fresh produce, spices, and local delicacies. Don't miss Vernissage, a sprawling outdoor market with a unique artistic flair.

• Visit the Blue Mosque: Though smaller than its counterparts in Iran and Central Asia, the serene Blue Mosque with its intricate blue mosaics offers a peaceful respite.

• Wander through Kond: Step back in time in this historic neighborhood, with its narrow and somewhat neglected streets, which gives it a unique and charming atmosphere.

• Ascend the Cascades: Enjoy panoramic city views while climbing the Cascade complex. For a less strenuous option, you can opt for the convenient escalators.

• Indulge in Yerevan's Coffee Culture: Coffee lovers will be delighted by the city's plethora of stylish cafes. My favorites include Garageara, housed in a former garage, and the old school ambience at Lumen Coffee 1936.

Beyond the structured itinerary, I highly recommend simply getting lost in Yerevan's vibrant energy.

Day trip from Yerevan to Garni and the Symphony of Stones

Garni is a popular destination for a day-trip from Yerevan. Reachable by Marshrutkas, it offers a fascinating glimpse into Armenia's ancient history. While the Garni Temple is a popular attraction, I skipped it to focus on the challenging 11km hike going from Garni to the Azat Reservoir.

The hike starts with an easy section by going all the way down through the Azat River Gorg, which surrounded by the majectic Symphony of Stones natural monument. This unique rock formation is a remarkable geological formation featuring unique basalt columns. These pillars, formed by ancient volcanic activity, resemble towering organ pipes, creating a mesmerizing and otherworldly landscape.

A difficult section is awaiting for you towards the end though, as you will need to hike - and nearly climb - all the way up on an unmarked path. You should carefully consult the comment section on HikeArmenia as one hiker explained how to reach the reservoir towards the end of the hike (by hiking up the hill once you near a big blue pipe), instead of backtracking as many others suggest.

I'm not sure whether there is a path leading to the reservoir, but I couldn't find any. I therefore rejoined the main road and then hitchiked my way to the reservoir, which is absolutely stunning.

Dining and accomodation

I recommend staying near the Yellow Fox hostel, a budget-friendly option conveniently located near numerous bars, restaurants, and cafes.

In terms of food, Yerevan offers a diverse culinary scene. For a delicious and affordable meal, I highly recommend Mr. Bite, known for its flavorful kebabs.

Southern Armenia: 4 nights in Goris and Tatev

After the scorching heat of Yerevan, the cooler climate of Southern Armenia was a welcome relief. With temperatures hovering between 20-25 degrees Celsius, it was ideal for hiking. While Goris and Tatev themselves offer limited attractions beyond their respective monasteries, they serve as excellent bases for exploring the surrounding region.

How to reach Goris/Tatev

Marshrutkas leave regularly from Yerevan to Goris (this website is incredibily helpful to get Marshrutkas' timetables). As I was heading to Tatev first, I asked the Marshrutka to stop at this petrol station where the road forks into a 'Y' shape, with the right branch leading to Tatev and the left one leading to Goris. I then easily hitchhiked my way to Tatev, catching three different rides on the way.

The easiest - and most scenic - way to travel between Tatev and Goris is via the Wings of Tatev, aka the longest reversible cableway in the world (see more below). The cable car connects Tatev and the village of Halidzor, a 30 minutes drive from Goris. Once in Halidzor, I simply hitchhiked my way to Goris. (Note: The cable car is relatively expensive for Armenian standards - approx. €15 for a one-way ride)

Must-Do's around Goris and Tatev

• The Majestic Tatev Monastery: Tatev Monastery is the undisputed star of this region. Nestled atop an isolated plateau, the Monastery has been erected on the edge of a deep gorge cut. Its majesty is best captured at sunset from the Tatev Viewpoint, where you can easily spend a few hours with a good book, taking a peek at the monastery from time to time.

• Wings of Tatev, a Thrilling Ride: The Wings of Tatev, a record-breaking cable car, offers stunning aerial views of the surrounding landscape. While the ticket price may seem steep, the experience is unforgettable. I opted for a one-way ticket at the end of my stay in Tatev, and then hitchhiked my way from Halidzor to Goris.

• Khndzoresk, a Glimpse into the Past: A short drive from Goris (which I hitchhiked easily), Khndzoresk, the "City of Caves," offers a fascinating glimpse into Armenia's past. Explore the ancient cave dwellings and experience the thrill (or terror) of crossing the "swinging bridge."

Hiking Adventures

Southern Armenia boasts numerous rewarding hikes, offering stunning landscapes, opportunities to explore ancient monasteries, and a chance to connect with the region's natural beauty. Again, most hikes are listed on the helpful HikeArmenia App. I personally did the following two hikes.

• Tatev to Devil's Bridge: This 6km hike is a true adventure. Starting at the breathtaking Tatev Viewpoint, the trail descends through lush green valleys, offering glimpses of the cascading Vorotan River. You'll encounter unique rock formations, cross picturesque streams, and even stumble upon a secluded hermitage where a solitary priest resides.

  • Important Note: One section was a bit more challenging as recent construction work has altered the path, making it more difficult to navigate (I ended up on a very steep and slippery area to try and re-join the marked trail). River crossing is also likely at the end of the trail - just remove your shoes and use a stick to keep your balance. The trail doesn't seem to be listed on HikeArmenia anymore, but you can find it here.

  • Tip: After reaching the Devil's Bridge, consider hitchhiking back to Tatev as there's usually a steady stream of vehicles on this route (and you don't want to hike that one up, believe me). Also, bring PLENTY of water wiht you, the sun hits hard!

• Old Goris Trail: This is a (much) shorter and more leisurely trail. Starting at the old cemetery, the path winds its way through the picturesque hills surrounding Goris. Enjoy panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside as you ascend. The trail culminates at a scenic picnic area, perfect for a relaxing break. GPS tracks are here.

Accommodation and Dining

• Goris: I stayed at Aregak B&B it was one of my favourite stay in Armenia. Marietta's warm hospitality - she will give you plenty of hugs - and delicious food made it a truly memorable stay. In terms of food options, the only place I really recommend is Goris Fresh Bakery (they have both sweet and savoury options).

• Tatev: I stayed at Rubina B&B, which offers simple but comfortable rooms and a delicious breakfast at a very affordable price. They also make their own vodka and will gladly serve you as many shots as you can handle 😉. Food options are limited in Tatev, but the few restaurants nearby the monastery all serve relatively good food!

Yeghegnadzor: Gateway to Stunning Landscapes (3 nights)

Nestled between Yerevan and Goris, Yeghegnadzor serves as an excellent base for exploring some of Armenia's most breathtaking scenery. I recommend spending at least two nights in the area. Following the recommendations of a friend, I actually stayed in Yeghegis - a small village on the outskirt Yeghegnadzor - for an authentic rural stay (see more below).

Must-Do's around Yeghegnadzor

Noravank Monastery: A Masterpiece of Armenian Architecture - The beauty of Armenian monasteries lies not only in their architecture but also in their remarkable settings, nestled within breathtaking landscapes - Novarank is no exception to this rule. Noravank easy road access makes it one of the most visited Monastery in the country, so I suggest arriving early - or late - to avoid the larger crowds (the crowds remains manageable even during peak times though, compared to popular sites in other countries).

I personally opted for a short (but challenging towards the end) 3km hike to reach the Monastery (see GPS tracks here). This rewarding hike offers a unique perpesctive on the Monastery as you arrive from the other side of the road leading to it.

Taskbars Monastery and Smbataberd Fortress: A Scenic Hike - A challenging yet rewarding hike leads to Taskbars Monastery. I chose to skip the Smbataberd Fortress portion of this trail, as I had little interest in visiting it. However, the hike to the monastery itself offers breathtaking views. Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy a leisurely meal at the monastery, where a refreshing stream provides a welcome source of cool water (as usual I recommend carrying a water filter with you, I personally use this one from LifeStraw during all my travels).

Indulge in Local Wines in Areni - The nearby village of Areni is renowned for its winemaking tradition. Take some time to visit a local winery, sample the unique flavors of Armenian wines, and learn about the region's rich viticultural heritage.

Accommodation and Dining

The River House Yeghegis - For a truly unforgettable and authentic experience, I cannot recommend enough staying at The River House Yeghegis (it was not possible to book a room online when I was in Armenia, but I just texted them on Whatsapp a few days before and they were happy to host me: +374 93 201 277).

This charming guesthouse, located about 30 minutes north of Yeghegnadzor, boasts surreal views - see below - and a tranquil setting nearby a little water stream where you can cool down on hot summer days. The owners are genuinely caring will make you feel right at home. I had some wonderful stays in Armenia, but this one wins the Gold medal (followed closely by Aregak B&B in Goris)

Note that the guesthouse is located in a remote area without any nearby restaurants. However, this isn't a problem as the guesthouse serves delicious and authentic local meals (and fresh beers, local wine and other liquors) 🙃. The daughter of the owners also speaks perfect English, which is quite uncommon (and appreciated) in the Armenian countryside.

Dilijan: A Hiker's Paradise in the Armenian Highlands (3 nights)

Known as the "Little Switzerland of Armenia," Dilijan National Park is a must-visit for any hiking enthusiast. This picturesque town sits on the renowned Transcaucasian Trail, offering a wealth of hiking opportunities.

Dilijan to Goshavank: A Forest Hike

I chose to tackle the Dilijan to Goshavank Monastery hike, which includes a detour to Lake Parz. I personally recommend skipping the lake, as it has been somewhat commercialized and basically looks like an amusement park.

The hike primarily winds through a lush forest, providing respite from the summer heat. However, do carry plenty of water, as you'll still work up a sweat. While the views within the forest are somewhat limited, the scenery becomes increasingly spectacular as you approach the monastery.

I understand some hikers choose to camp near Lake Parz, splitting the trek into two days. However, I completed the entire hike in a single day, taking approximately 5 hours with breaks (and, I repeat, I recommend avoiding the Lake like the plague).

From Goshavank Monastery, I easily hitchhiked back to Dilijan. Taxis are also readily available at the monastery.

Haghartsin Gata: A Delicious Detour

On my way back from the hike, I made a detour to Haghartsin Gata near Haghartsin Monastery. This traditional bakery, randomly discovered on Google Map, lived up to the hype. I indulged in a warm apricot and thyme gata, their star pastry, and it was absolutely divine. I highly recommend grabbing one (or two) and enjoying it while exploring the Monastery next door.

Sevanavank Monastery: A Day-trip from Dilijan

Perched on the shores of the stunning Lake Sevan, Sevanavank boasts one of the most breathtaking views of any monastery in Armenia.

Built in the 9th century, its two main churches stand as testaments to Armenian architectural prowess. The monastery's dramatic location, nestled against the backdrop of the vast lake, creates an awe-inspiring atmosphere. The surrounding scenery is simply breathtaking, with panoramic views of the crystal-clear water and the majestic mountains that encircle the lake.

Sevanavank is a short 45 minutes drive from Dilijan (you can easily hitchike your way to and back as there is a steady flow of traffic). It is also a short drive from Yerevan, and most people actually visit it as a day trip from the capital.

Alaverdi: A Glimpse into Soviet-Era Industry (1 night)

Alaverdi typically serves as the final stop for travelers heading to Georgia from Armenia (or the first for those entering Armenia).

I only spent one night there as I had a sprained ankle, limiting my ability to explore the surrounding hiking trails (Alaverdi itself has not much to offer).

Alaverdi is perhaps the most starkly "Soviet" city I encountered during my time in Armenia (in fact, in my life). Situated near a now-closed copper smelter, which once served as the city's economic backbone, Alaverdi carries a palpable sense of industrial/life decline. The closure of the plant led to widespread job losses and a significant exodus of residents, leaving behind a somewhat haunting, ghost-town atmosphere.

While not a must-see for travelers on a tight schedule, Alaverdi offers a unique glimpse into the industrial past of Soviet Armenia. I found it fascinating to wander through the city, capturing its faded grandeur through street photography, as if stepping back in time by several decades.

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