Solo Adventure on the Pamir Highway & Wakhan Valley

The Pamir Highway, a high-altitude road traversing the Pamir Mountains, is a testament to human ingenuity and a connection to the past. This historic route, once a vital link on the Silk Road, has witnessed the passage of merchants, explorers, and conquerors for centuries. From the grandeur of towering peaks to the serenity of crystal-clear lakes, the Pamir Highway offers a journey through time and space, inviting travelers to experience the raw beauty and cultural richness of this remote and awe-inspiring region.Before starting your journey.

Admin formalities

Before starting your journey on the Pamir, you will need to sort out a few formalities.

1. GBAO Permit - In order to travel on the Pamir Highway and the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO), you will need a GBAO Permit. This permit can be obtained at Dushanbe's OVIR office for 50 SOM + 20 SOM as "processing fees" - there are OVIR offices in other cities too, which might charge different prices. You also need to bring a registration paper from your hotel - without it they won't issue your GBAO permit. So bring (i) sufficient cash, (ii) your passport and (iii) the paper from your hotel.

2. Registration - The rule isn't crystal clear and seems to change by the minute, but it seems that anyone staying more than 10 working days in tajikistan needs to register. This also applies if you are from a visa-free country (which was my case). This is also done at the OVIR office, for 220 SOM (price also seems to vary from one place to the other and over time). Agents usually charge an extra fee (I paid 50 SOM) for same-day processing.

3. Kyzyl Art Pass border corssing permit - To enter Kyrgyzstan through the Kyzyl Art Pass, you must obtain a permit. This permit can be acquired online from Destination Pamir for a fee of $15. You should apply for the permit at least 2-3 days prior to your intended crossing date. While you don't need to specify the exact crossing date during the application process, border officials will inquire about the date the permit was registered. Destination Pamir will provide you with this registration date.

4. Get enough cash - Cash is king on the Pamir/in the Wakhan, and options to withdraw are limited. So I would advise to withdraw (more than enough) Somonis in Dushanbe (and maybe bring some extra USD with you in case you end up short of SOM, as USD is also accepted in many places). Please note that it is EXTREMELY difficult to withdraw cash with a Mastercard in Tajikistan, so take a VISA card with you if you can.

5. Get a local SIM card - If you wish to have some internet access during your journey on the Pamir/in the Wakhan, it is better to get a local SIM card as Wifi is close to inexistent. Tcell seems to offer the best coverage in the area - I had decent coverage in villages/cities between Dushanbe and Langar, but I was totally off the grid from Langar ownards (even in Murghab, I had zero signal).

Day 1 - Dushanbe to Kalaikhum

Following a brief stay at the Green House Hostel in Dushanbe (the city itself wasn't particularly exciting, so I didn't linger), I embarked on my Pamir adventure with a group of three travelers – a couple and their friend – who had already hired a driver. I opted to join their group (for $45/day) for the journey to Khorog for two reasons:

1. The long distance - The route to Khorog is incredibly lengthy, and I was eager to avoid spending two days crammed into a truck or enduring a grueling 16-hour ride in a local minibus.

2. The Jiseu/Jizev Hike - I was particularly keen on hiking in the Bartang Valley, specifically the Jiseu/Jizev trail. This hike is difficult to access independently as it involves a detour off the main Dushanbe-Khorog route, which is much easier to reach with a private vehicle.

While the road from Dushanbe to Kalai-Khum might not boast the dramatic peaks of other Pamir sections, it holds a unique allure. It's here that travelers catch their first glimpse of Afghanistan on the other side of the Tanj River, a moment charged with a mix of curiosity and awe. For nine days, up to Langar, the M41 and the Wakhan offered constant, breathtaking views of Afghanistan, its presence simply impossible to ignore.

After a long day on the road, we arrived in Kalaikhum, which turned out to be one of my favourite village on the Pamir/Wakhan Valley. Kalaikhum is the confluence point of the turquoise Obikhumbou river and the muddy Panj River, creating a stunning colour contrast. It is also a lively village, full of curious kids who quickly gather around the few tourists leaving their guesthouse.

After spending some time hanging out with the kids on the bank of the Panj River, they asked us to join them to play a football game in their home-made stadium, which appeared to be sponsored by Evergreen. Overall, I couldn't have wished for a better way to start this adventure on the Pamir.

Day 2 - Kalaikhum to Bartang Valley (+ Jizev trek)

The road between Kalai Khum and Khorog was undergoing significant construction in 2024, making early starts essential. To avoid being stuck in lengthy delays at work sites, travelers were advised to leave Langar as early as 4-5am. But, tired of our football game the previous night, we overslept by 30 minutes and missed our alarm, resulting in a 2-3 hour delay due to road construction :)

We therefore arrived at the start of the Jizev trek later than planned due to an unexpected delay. However, this turned out to be a fortunate turn of events as the midday heat had begun to subside, making the hike much more enjoyable.

The three villages at the end of the trek boast numerous homestays offering basic but comfortable accomodations. We stayed at Lola's Guesthouse, the second guesthouse after Gulsha Guesthouse, and thoroughly enjoyed our experience.

My travel companions opted to camp in the garden near the lake for a modest fee, while I stayed in the guesthouse for 180 SOM (with dinner and breakfast). Guesthouse prices and amenities appear to be generally comparable in the villages. Lola's Guesthouse features a spacious room with futons, typically shared with other guests. Luckily, I had the room to myself that evening :)

The three villages at the end of the trek boast numerous homestays offering basic but comfortable accomodations. We stayed at Lola's Guesthouse, the second guesthouse after Gulsha Guesthouse, and thoroughly enjoyed our experience.

My travel companions opted to camp in the garden near on the bank of lake for a modest fee, while I stayed in the guesthouse for 180 SOM (with dinner and breakfast). Guesthouse prices and amenities appear to be generally comparable in the villages. Lola's Guesthouse features a spacious room with futons, typically shared with other guests. Luckily, I had the room to myself that evening :)

Day 3 - Bartang Valley to Khorog

Fuelled by a delicious rice porridge and a scenic morning hike through the charming Jizev villages, we made our way back to the trailhead to meet our driver. The drive to Khorog was relatively short, and we arrived at our destination around lunchtime.

Khorog serves as the last significant town (or perhaps a large village) on your journey through the Pamir/Wakhan. Here, you'll find a a couple of restaurants, decent supermarkets, including a decent (and apparently "famous") Indian restaurant. Notably, Khorog sits at the crucial crossroads where the Pamir Highway (M-41) meets the Wakhan Valley.

While Khorog offers these conveniences, it's not likely to be the highlight of your trip. The town itself doesn't have a wealth of attractions, but it does provide a valuable stop for supplies and a chance to refuel before venturing further along the Pamir Highway.

Day 4 - Khorog to Ishkashim

My journey in the Wakhan Valley began in Khorog, where I embarked on my hitchhiking adventure towards Ishkashim. This first day proved to be one of the most challenging but also most memorable hitchiking experienceof my entire trip.

Waiting by the roadside in Khorog, I endured a two-hour standstill before a friendly local offered me a free ride to a checkpoint 20 kilometers further. At the checkpoint, my luck improved slightly. Cars were obliged to stop, and an officer, with a gentle nudge, convinced the driver of the second vehicle to give me a lift. This meant the driver's wife had to squeeze into the back with another passenger and three children – apologies to the lady!

I agreed on a fare of 70 SOM with the driver and we were off. However, to my surprise, he stopped an hour later, claiming he wasn't going all the way to Ishkashim (or at least, that's what I understood through our limited communication). After a brief but intense negotiation, I settled on 40 SOM and he drove off, looking rather disgruntled.

Stranded in the middle of nowhere, I waited for another 30 minutes before two kind locals offered me a ride to a small village an hour further, for 30 SOM. In this tiny village, I waited for about half an hour when a local man invited me to his home for food and drink. This was an incredibly heartwarming experience. I spent the next hour in their humble home – a single room where they eat, sleep, and live their lives – enjoying biscuits, watermelon, chai, and even fresh, warm milk. It was a true testament to the incredible hospitality of the Tajik people (I didn't want to be too intrusive, so I barely took any pictures during my time there).

After expressing my heartfelt gratitude, I returned to the roadside to continue my hitchhiking journey. Suddenly, a loud engine roared, and an old Mercedes came hurtling towards me at high speed. I raised my thumb, and to my amazement, the Mercedes screeched to a halt some 100 meters down the road.

A man named Misha emerged from the car and beckoned me over. I found myself a passenger in Misha's high-powered Mercedes. As I buckled up and Misha roared the engine to life like a race car driver in a Fast and Furious movie, I realized my new chauffeur was quite intoxicated. Misha, who spoke a little broken English, drove recklessly along the cliffside at 120 km/h, punctuating his driving with "fuck Putin" every few minutes. It was an exhilarating, if terrifying, ride. I genuinely feared for my life as we careened along the edge of the Tanj River.

Halfway to Ishkashim, Misha abruptly pulled over. I quickly realized why – a small wooden cabin on the side of the road offered tap beer. So there I was, sharing a pint with the inebriated Misha, enjoying the surreal view of Afghan villages across the river.

After our roadside refreshment, Misha seemed reinvigorated, though his driving remained somewhat erratic. Miraculously, we arrived safely in Ishkashim, where he refused the 50 SOM I offered him as a thank you for the ride (and the beer) - big-hearted Misha!

The three-hour journey from Khorog to Ishkashim had taken nearly eight hours, but what a journey it was. In Ishkashim, I can highly recommend Guesthouse REN. While slightly pricier than average at 250 SOM (including dinner and breakfast), it offers a level of luxury uncommon in the Pamir region: a brand new house, hot showers, a proper toilet, Wi-Fi, private rooms with actual beds, cold drinks/beers, and a lovely garden with fruit trees. Enjoy these simple comforts while you can! Ishkashim is also a charming village with friendly locals - I encourage you to explore the surrounding area and take the time to interact with the people if you can!

Day 5 - Ishkashim to Namagdut

After a leisurely morning in Ishkashim, I hitched a ride to Namagdut, a mere 25 kilometers away. This was the shortest hitchhiking ride of my entire trip.

Namagdut, home to a handful of residents, offers one of the rawest and most authentic experiences on the Pamir Highway. I initially planned to stay at Silk Road Guesthouse, but finding it unoccupied, I opted for Intizor Guesthouse. After a bit of negotiation, I settled on 220 SOM per night, including dinner and breakfast (the initial asking price was 250 SOM).

The accommodation at Intizor Guesthouse was basic, to say the least. Expect a cold shower, a squat toilet, and obviously no Wi-Fi (nor phone signal). But believe me, this is exactly what you want in such a remote and authentic setting. The food was equally simple – boiled potatoes with onions for dinner and a massive loaf of bread with jam for breakfast. Despite the language barrier, the owners were incredibly kind. In fact, the woman insisted on washing my clothes for me when she saw me about to do laundry by hand outside.

The highlight of my stay was undoubtedly the Khakha Fortress, located right next to Intizor Guesthouse. The views from the fortress are simply breathtaking. Perched above the Panj River, it offers a panoramic 360-degree vista of both Afghanistan and Tajikistan. I spent hours on the hilltop, lost in a good book and mesmerized by the stunning scenery.

Day 6 - Namagdut to Yamchun (+ Ishkashim’s Afghan market)

After bidding farewell to my hosts, I returned to the main road to hitchhike back to Ishkashim. It was Saturday, the day of the renowned Afghan Market, a vibrant gathering where Tajiks and Afghans come together to trade goods and socialize in a neutral zone on the Afghan side of the Panj River.

The market offers a unique opportunity to glimpse life in Afghanistan and interact with the Afghan people. Despite being on the bucket list of most tourists adventuring in the Wakhan Valley, we only encountered perhaps 20 to 30 other tourists during our three hours there. On the other hand, the market was bustling with locals, particularly Afghans. All Afghans we met were incredibly friendly, curious and most of all eager to engage in long conversation (and have their photos taken with the Slovak girls 😉).

Most stalls were operated by Afghans, selling a variety of goods. A dedicated food corner offered delicious local delicacies like sizzling shashlik skewers and flavorful plov. Visiting the Afghan Market was undoubtedly a highlight of my journey, and I highly recommend spending at least two to three hours there and interacting with the locals.

Unfortunately, our experience was marred by an unpleasant incident. As we were leaving the market, a man in a crowded alley grabbed one of the Slovak girls' breasts. Shocked, she froze and could only inform us of the incident seconds later. This unfortunate event served as a stark reminder of the challenges women face worldwide and the obstacles that still prevent many women from traveling solo.

On another sad note, only Afghan men were present at the market, as women were barred from attending by the Talibans. A young Afghan man shared his deep sadness about his sister, who was no longer allowed to pursue education and a fulfilling life. This moving encounter emphasized the importance of the ongoing global fight for women's rights.

The Slovak girls graciously offered to drop me back in Ishkashim. After a short wait, I found a shared taxi to Yamchun for 70 SOM. From there, it was a short uphill walk to Akim Homestay, a highly recommended guesthouse known for its serene location and English-speaking hosts. I paid 300 SOM for accommodation with three meals included, my most expensive stay in Tajikistan.

Akim's Homestay truly is a gem. The setting is incredibly peaceful, and Akim and his wife are among the few locals who speak English, making them valuable resources for travelers. The only downside was the dinner, a vegetable Laghman with potatoes, bread, and salad, which was somewhat disappointing considering the price.

Day 7 - Yamchum to Langar

Two main attractions draw visitors to Yamchum: the Bibi Fatima hot springs and the Yamchum fortress, both perched dramatically atop a steep hill.

Initially, I planned to hike up, but the scorching sun quickly changed my mind. Instead, I flagged down the first car that passed, grateful for the respite from the heat (tbhis short trip made my wallet lighter of 20 SOM).

The hot springs, though initially met with skepticism (I half-expected a tourist trap), turned out to be a delightful surprise. I spent over an hour soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters, enjoying a nice conversation with a Tajik man who had lived in the UK for many years. The springs have two entrances: a cave-like grotto on the left where hot water pours directly from the rock, and a small pool on the right. Men and women are expected to alternate between the two. Locals believe the springs possess healing properties, particularly for female fertility.

The Yamchum fort is nothing to write home about (they actually seem to be rebuilding it). However, the panoramic views from the hilltop were breathtaking and absolutely worth the trip.

After a quick lunch at the Akim Homestay, I continued my journey by hitchhiking. Luck was on my side when a German tourist with a private driver offered me a ride. Instead of a short one-hour drive to Langar, we spent the afternoon exploring some interesting stops along the way, thanks to my new travel companion.

I had initially planned to stay in Zong or Hisor, but finding accommodation proved challenging. The homestays listed on Google Maps and iOverlander all seemed closed, and I had no luck finding locals willing to host me. I did find a place called "Sash Homestay" in Zong, but the owner's rude attitude during price negotiations quickly turned me away.

Undeterred, I continued hitchhiking towards Langar. I stopped at the first guesthouse called Mischa Guesthouse (220SOM with dinner and breakfast) and decided to stay there for two nights as I was planning to hike the Engels Peak Meadows the next day. Mischa Guesthouse was relaztively basic, offering dormitory beds or private rooms, and the food was simply decent. However, the hot water and the friendly atmosphere, especially on the second night when the guesthouse was full of other travelers, made it a comfortable and enjoyable stay.

Day 7 - Hiking the Engels Peak Meadows

I met a couple from Atlanta at Mischa Homestay who were also planning to hike the Engels Peak Meadows the next day, so we decided to team up. After an early breakfast, their driver dropped us at the start of the hike in Langar and off we went!

There are two possible trailheads that lead up to Engel peak meadows. The shorter but much steeper one starts from Langar and the other longer but more gradual starts from Zong. Whilst most people recommend to start in Zong and finish in Langar, we did the opposite and I believe this is the best option for two reasons. First, I always prefer to ascend steeper sections rather than descending them. Second, the view going down from the meadowd to Zong is spectacular, and you would miss most of it (or would have to look backward every 2mins) if you are ascending that section.

This will be a long day so pack enough food with you. With regards to the water supply, there is no need to carry too much with you (I if you have a filter as you will find fresh water at the meadows (in which case 2L is enough for the way up).

The Engels Peak Meadows offers a memorable hiking experience for adventurers and nature enthusiasts. The trail leading to the stunning peak winds through picturesque valleys and lush alpine meadows, providing breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains. The serene environment also creates a sense of tranquility, making it a perfect escape after spending days and days locked in your car, admiring the landscapes from your window.

All in all, hiking the Angels Peak Meadows is a must if you're travelling in the Wakhan, and is another reason why you should not rush it (I met people in Langar who could not do the hike because they were on a very tight 5-day roadtrip from Osh to Dushanbe...).

Day 9 - Langar to Murghab

The stretch from Langar to Murghab was exactly as I'd feared: a hitchhiking desert. With local traffic being close to non-existent, the only hope rests on other travelers. I knew I had a back-up option as the American couple I hiked Engels peak with were going in that direction, but I didn't want to be too intrusive as I had spent already quite some time with them.

Waking up at 5:30 AM, I spent the next two hours fruitlessly flagging down vehicles. As the wait stretched on, the American couple arrived and kiondly pulled up. They asked me to discuss with their driver to negotiate a fee though, as this was a log drive. The driver demanded an exorbitant 800 SOM for the ride to the Khargush Lake turn-off. I argued it was unreasonable, as my presence wouldn't change much for him (expect maybe a slitghly hiogher fuel consumption). After some negotiation, we settled on 150 SOM, a compromise he begrudgingly accepted.

Once at Khargush Lake turn-off, I resumed my hitchhiking quest but decided to do so walking - despite my heavy load - to enjoy the scenic road through the Khargush Pass (4,350m). Two hours later, the American couple reappeared, much to their amusement (the driver didn't seem that pleases tho 😉)! After a short ride, we parted ways at the M41 junction, heading in opposite directions.

A few minutes later, a friendly Tajik truck driver offered me a ride to Murghab. Despite the language barrier, we communicated with smiles and gestures. He proudly showed me photos of his family and generously shared his food with me. We stopped for lunch at Golden Fish in Alichur, a treat I offered in gratitude. However, the truck's slow pace made me question if we'd reach Murghab that day. But eight grueling hours later, we finally arrived, long past Google Maps' estimated two-hour drive time.

My new friend offered me a bunk in his truck, but I craved a shower and a comfortable bed so I opted for the Pamir Hotel instead. I spent the night at the Pamir Hotel because it is where the driver stopped his truck and I did not feel like walking 2kms to Guest House Aruf that had been recommended to me. As I was expecting based on recent reviews, Pamir Hotel was not great at all - the hotel was filthy and plagued by drunken locals.

Day 10 - Murghab to Karakul Lake

Day 10 brought another long but amazing drive. I started early, waiting near Guest House Aruf for a ride to Karakul Lake. After a couple of hours during which I barely any car passed by, a fellow traveler staying there offered me coffee, which was a nice touch. Just as I finished, Ruppert, a German guy in a cool orange Russian van, stopped and offered me a ride all the way to Karakul - God Bless Ruppert. He was actually camping a few kms before the lake but made a detour to drop me off.

I had some great chats with Ruppert along the way. We also met another German driver in a similar van and a Czech student cycling the Pamir on a crazy 10€ bike he found in Dushanbe! It didn't even have gears, and the brakes were barely working..

Landscapes-wise, the drive between Murghab and Karakul Lake was another marvel. You go over the Ak-Baital Pass, the highest pass on the Pamir at 4,655 meters. The scenery changes constantly, from desert landscapes to the beautiful Karakul Lake surrounded by snowy mountains.

Karakul Lake, nestled in the Pamir mountains at almost 4,000 meters, has a magical feel. The village itself feels a bit like a ghost town which I loved, with hardly anyone around. The wind was strong and freezing, and for the first time on the Pamir, I needed to wear lots of layers. Most people just stop to Karakul for lunch on their way between Murghab and Osh, but I recommend spending a night there to soak in the unique atmosphere (and also break the very long drive between Murghab and Osh).

I stayed at Erkin Guesthouse, which had on iOverlander. It's basic but luxurious for Karakul – hot shower, a proper toilet, good food, and a comfortable bed. It was a bit pricey (200 SOM with dinner and breakfast) as another guesthouse nearby quoted me 120 SOM, but you get what you pay for 🙃. I'm not sure if solo traveller always get a private room, but I had a 3-bed room to myself.

Funny thing, right before dinner, I was reading in my room when I heard familiar voices. It was the American couple again ! Their faces when they saw me were quite priceless. But we had a good laugh, and the guesthouse had a nice atmosphere that night with about 10 travelers."

Day 11 - Karakul Lake to Osh

Day 11 marked the last day of my journey on the Pamir Highway, and I got quite emotional sitting in the cold, thumb up, reflecting on the last 10 days on the Pamir/Wakhan and what an incredible adventure it had been.

After an hour waiting in the cold, another hitchhiker showed up, and it turned out to be a German traveller I had been in touch with for weeks via the Silk Road Overlanders Whatsapp group (which I recommend you to join if you're planning to travel in Central Asia!). A few minutes later a car of Italian tourists pulled over with one free spot. We therefore decided to split and meet later in the No Man's Land between Tajikistan and Kyrgyztan as direct border crossings are not allowed anymore for Tajik and Kyrgyz citizens following tension in the area (meaning border crossing involves changing vehicles).

Once in the No Man's Land, we negotiated a very good rate with a shared taxi (which turned out to be a private taxi for the two of us) as we only paid 150 SOM for a ride to Osh. Again, do not forget to book your permit to cross the Kyzyl Art Pass at least a few days before you expect to cross, or you will be stuck at the border. You can get the permit via Destination Pamir (+996707760657) for $15 - it is fine if you do not know exactly what day you will be crossing.

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