Exploring Iran's Gulf Islands: Qeshm, Hormuz and Hengam

After exploring the Lut Desert near Kerman, my next stop was a week-long island-hopping adventure in Iran's Persian Gulf, heading to Hormuz via Bandar Abbas.

I've always seen Iranians as some of the most forward-thinking people in the Middle East (even with a not-so-forward government), but what I found in the Gulf was next level. Think psytrance raves, hippie communities and stunning beaches where women tend to ignore the regime's dress codes. And this progressive side of Iran coexists with the pure traditions of the Gulf, as seen in more conservative neighborhoods where many Bandari women still wear the distinctive "boregheh" mask (see this article from the BBC).

And the best about Iran's Persian Gulf islands? You can visit them visa-free for up to 14 days!

Hormuz, the Rainbow Island

Hormuz, often called the Rainbow Island because of its incredibly colorful landscapes, has a cool mix of locals and Iranians who've moved there from the big cities for a more chill life. While Hormuz is famous for natural spots like the Red Beach and the Valley of Statues, they've become so popular with people queuing for selfies that they're just not enjoyable anymore. (Hormuz is a huge holiday spot for Iranians now)

That said, I totally loved the vibe in the main town. There are these hipster coffee shops right on the waterfront and more traditional restaurants once you wander a bit further in. Cruising around the island on a motorbike was also really fun.

Hormuz offers a wide range of accodomodations for its relatively little size, including a number of lovely guesthouses. I stayed at Qhala House, a true home in the heart of the village. Sanaz and Soleyman are excellent and really caring hosts. The breakfast was one of the best I had in Iran, and they also serve vegetarian lunch/dinner upon request.

I'd definitely recommend spending at least two nights in Hormuz. And if you're up for it, maybe even a few extra days to join locals on a 2-3 day camping trip to some secluded beaches only reachable by boat. (Just a heads up, these trips often involve some "illegal" activities 😇)

Qeshm, the Largest Island in the Persian Gulf

Qeshm is the biggest island in the Persian Gulf and feels a lot more "developed" (and not in a good way – think shopping malls and that kind of vibe) than Hormuz and Hengam. But it still has some gems. Like the super authentic Laft village, where you can get a glimpse of the fast-disappearing traditional Persian Gulf culture. Lots of houses there still have their original wind towers (and I heard Laft village is actually protected, with its wind towers restored using old techniques). Laft is best experienced at sunset, when locals and visitors gather on the hill near the ruins of Naderi Fort to watch the stunning view.

I actually went to Laft twice during my time on Qeshm. The first time, my host Aref took me on his motorbike for a tour of the village and then invited me to Iftar at the local mosque. During Ramadan, neighbors bring food every day for those who pray at dawn. It's another beautiful example of the strong sense of community that's so characteristic of Iran.

Another spot worth checking out on Qeshm is the coastal village near Salakh. I spent a few hours there reading and chilling with a cold drink at PIN coffee, a trendy place you'd never expect to find in such a remote area. This is exactly the kind of place I live for when I travel – slow life, curious locals, and not much to do but people-watch.

I did not have much time to discover Qeshm (the island is big and getting around is not that easy), but I'm sure there are many other lovely spots and authentic villages.

Hengam, Iran's Unspoiled Beach Paradise

I didn't really have many expectations for Hengam. It's nowhere near as famous as its two neighbors. But this tiny island, with less than 1,000 people, is an absolute gem. Hengam boasts some of the best beaches I've ever seen, and the best part is, you can often have them all to yourself. There are practically no tourists on Hengam compared to Hormuz, and the ones who do visit aren't just there for the selfies.

Hengam is a well-known spot for hippies, both local and international, and most visitors camp on the island. I didn't get to (I stayed at House of Jabir) since I didn't have camping gear, but I'd totally recommend it if you can. There are some things I never imagined experiencing in Iran, and ending up at a psytrance rave in the middle of an island with 80% of the crowd high on shrooms was definitely one of them.

Here are some pictures I took driving back and forth across the island during my 48 hours there.

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